By Ben Ade On our approach to the Southern coast we were greeted by a sudden weather change. This lasted for 3 days and ended in what seemed like a tropical typhoon of sorts. We are now back to enjoying the hot sun whilst Kaerus dries out from the ordeal.
The current camp is in the 'Praia da Rocha' resort near Portimao. We found a great bit of derelict land in between the marina and beach, we have been here near a week as its been ideal apart from the initial weather which, if nothing else, reminded us of home! The next move onwards shall be later this week. Since leaving the UK we have managed to 'wild camp' in our own chosen locations every night with no problems, even in the storms we resisted any temptation to shelter in nearby discount hotels or campsites. Anyway, we are off to the beach now as the sun is inviting us in that direction, adios for now.
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By Ben Ade
I write this from the side of a breezy but warm beach in Odeceixe, the furthest North beaches of the Algarve region. We reached the coast a few days ago and are reluctant to move away from it, the salty air and healing sunshine are quite addictive. Kaerus has managed to manouvere into some great idyllic camp spots, although tonights spot was recommended to us by a couple of friendly French hitchhikers. I have even donned my shorts and sandals over the past days, a true sign of the heat for me! The coast line is becoming more rocky and varied as we move south, as opposed to the amazingly long beaches encountered below the Lisbon area. It may be off season but there are still a fair few tourers around. These in general seem to be in two categories so far, the retired couples/singles with gigantic houses on wheels, living their long awaited dreams of seeing the world, often with a small runabout car attached to the tow bar for good measure. The others are older and varied live-in van conversions with younger couples/singles on their own winding paths towards freedom road. Portugal has been a joy to behold, the country has a real general feeling of contentment. The infrastructure is great also. Government supplied free wi-fi in most towns and villages, great toll free roads, hundreds of public recreation parks scattered around the countryside and free to use. A good example of the positive benefits of EU membership since it joined back in the 80's, the countries long troubles seem a thing of the past now. Their economy may not rate high, but quality of life surveys here often sit way higher than other European countries with booming economies. If Scotland was its own country and remained in the EU, I would like to think it would be quite similar in many ways. Sure we have a slight sunshine deficiency, but like Portugal, tourism, fishing and agriculture could sustain the population along with renewable energy solutions at sea due to long coastlines and oceanic access. Just a dream? Possibly, but it works here. By Melissa ShawWhat a treat to stumble upon the picturesque town of Gois. As we continue on our southward venture, we dropped down from our marathon climb up and down nearly 2000m mountains into a valley nestling the village like town of Gois. This sleepy little town hosts the Rio Ceira, whose crystal clear waters run throughout the centre of Gois. Our new home of four days was situated within a meadow field, the river running opposite and a scattering of orange trees around. On our right there is a riverside hibernating bar/café complete with it's own functioning water wheel. To our left is the wooden boardwalk along the river edge heading upto the town. A stunning 16th century arched bridge connects our camp to the slopping cobbled square and it's network of old style streets. The locals are all very welcoming and we have become familiar with a section of them crossing paths in the streets, cafes, shops, etc. Including an enthusiastic butcher that spoke very good English and was keen to tell us about his recent visit to Inverness in our very own bonnie Scotland. We also made a nice acquaintance with a black stray cat, who enjoyed visiting us on daily basis. Although, he did push his luck some times trying to sneak into the kitchen in the Land Rover! Our visit to Gois proved positively calm and 'easy going' however we are told according to the Guide book to Portugal that there is a huge motor bike rally during the month of August. "Gois attracts 40,000 bikers for a good natured four day festival of bike shows, radical sports, live bands and DJs". So i guess our quiet, secluded camp in the meadow is usually part of a tent city! Our not so extreme water sports! After our hike around Gois collecting errands and seeking out hilltop views of the town we were beginning to perish in the hot sunshine. Ah, what a way to cool down, let's have a dip in the river. It is supposed to be perfect in bathing season (Summer). "no way it's freezing! after dipping one of Ben's big toes. "How about the Kayak then?" I suggested. So we set to work blowing up our inflatable kayak. Much to the council workers look of surprise as they watched as they walked past. I wonder are you familiar with the sound of an airbed pump? Well, if so, imagine that squeaking filling the surrounding area. The workers simply had to see what else would appear out of this crazy looking vehicle parked in the middle of the field on their way back to work. Unfortunately there is never a graceful way to board this inflatable vessel, you simply have to put one foot in and hope for the best! Once both boarded and set sail into the middle of the river we had to develop a rhythm to stop us from going in circles. "Paddle your side more!" Ben would urge. "I am, you need to paddle your side more!" I would plead. "Nope, wait we are rotating again!" Oh, heaven forbid we got there eventually and once we did we could enjoy the spectacular surroundings around us. The smell of summer hits you when you see blossom float past you, green ivy vines draping over the river bank trees. The glinting of the water that almost blinds you. Also we caught a glimpse of a fish through the clear waters as we pass. Truly wonderful! Needless to say we enjoyed our stay in Gois over the last few days, but we must move on to discover another secret treasure hidden in this beautiful country. I would never have expected to be riding a proud chestnut coloured horse across the sand beach of the Rio Tejo. Peeling carrots and potatoes for our supper is just one simple task to be done on a sunset evening. However, when you are greeted by two stunning horses galloping across the beach, its a sight never to forget. I would of never expected that my curiosity would have prompted the young Portuguese boy to ask in very well spoken English "would you like a shot on the horse?" Wherever will you take us next Kaerus? By Ben AdeAs Kaerus spent another day ascending the highest peaks in Portugal, the time was nearing to set camp once again. We like to make sure we are parked and settled in the late afternoon, trying not to break the golden rule of overlanding, never driving after dark.
The altimeter read 1200 metres and the roads we chose had become tracks, which had then become ancient goat paths of some description. I stopped and engaged 'low box' gears on Kaerus before heading further, she growled along the landscape just as asked. The boulder strewn landscape resembled a scene from so many sci-fi movies of alien planets. The rounded, glacial rocks, many larger than double decker buses, balanced precariously on one another in seemingly endless arrangements all around us. A sheltered spot was decided on and the views from atop our perch confirmed we had chosen well. After nice hot showers, we had a lovely curry made from local beef bought at market and cooked by Melissa (my cooking is more functional rather than tasty!). A nice glass (mug) of vinho finished the meal perfectly, the dark was now approaching fast. The temperature was cooler than our previous camps in the country, no doubt a result of the climb in altitude, but still warmer than a summer night in good old Scotland. The full moon shone down on the surreal mountain landscape as we went for a nightime hike around the peak, the views stretched for as far as the eye could see in the direction of North-Western Portugal and into Spain. Streetlights belonging to hundreds of separate villages and towns, each going about their usual evening routines. The only views I have ever seen alike are from the windows of a passenger aeroplane. One of the residents below was setting off fireworks for whatever occasion, we had the privilege of viewing a firework show from above, quite a sight. After another wee warm at the camp fire it was time for hittin' the hay, our sleeping/waking times are alot more in tune with nature and the sunrise since we have been living outdoors. Suddenly a strange noise filled the air, echoing along the valleys and up the mountain. If anyone has seen 'Silent Hill', the horror based on the real town in Pennsylvania which was evacuated due to underground coal mine fires which still burns to this day, you will remember the old fire siren sound used in the feature. It is also near identical to the old air raid sirens used in war time UK. This was the noise. It seemed odd but our only logical guess was that the towns still used a huge old wind up siren as their fire alarm, amazing how it filled the air and travelled up the mountain so loudly. After the sirens faded a good nights sleep followed. The early sunrise arrived with thick clouds all around, they breezed past like huge wafts of smoke from. We thought we heard the faint sound of a dog barking nearby, then dismissed it as couldn't think why a dog would be so near. Then through the mist It sounded again, this time with the sound of many bells jingling. A brief gap in the mist revealed a small hunch back shepherd, crook in hand, leading his bell collared sheep over the mountains. Within the space of a few seconds the mist had covered them again, when it lifted they were gone along with the sounds. The shepherd must have been on a very long hike as there were no farms or houses nearby, however you could see evidence of ancient farms laid out across the mountain peak, used centuries past and now just lines and bases of stone walls in the ground. As the sun rose further, the mist cleared, camp was packed and we navigated our way off to tarmac roads once again. The direction headed was the Serra de Acor, a set of lower peaks with their own charms and surprises to show us in time, the altitude dropped, temperature rose and the heady aroma of pine forests filled the air, who knows what's around the next corner or awaits at tonight's camp! By Melissa ShawSouth west directs the compass as we leave our windy French woodland camp. It's no exaggeration that the temperature is drastically increasing as we descend through Europe, crossing the border between France and into Espino. "Look at the sunshine!" we both yelped from our seats in the Land Rover's front cab.
The Spanish landscape initially presents herself with vast stretches of sleeping wine vinyards and vegetable plantations. Also not to forget the 'hum' from bees that are busy collecting nectar from the pink and white almond blossoms. As our travels south continue, we are crossing yet another border, Portugal! The language used to paint rural Portugal within guide books, lours us to see for ourselves, leading us to the next chapter in our adventure in the area Tras-os-Montes. The narrow, cobble streets of the rural villages gently caress our fully loaded expedition Land rover. The local villagers,all though very friendly, observe us passing through their quiet timeless habitat as if the first passing traffic. We pass by many small crofts and farms with older couples ploughing their front fields with a horse and plough, tending their very well organised crops and gathering small herds of sheep and goats to milk. The pace is very gentle, slow and steady as if going bck in time. The dogs are even reluctant to move an inch from their slumber upon the sun heated roads. Finding a camp amongst these beautiful surroundings can be slightly more difficult than it would appear. The pottering farmers make good use of their space provided, ensuring that all corners of their fields are planted and they make full use of small tracks joining each field and farm. As usual, Kairos finds herself a suitable spot along a small track with an unused area (we did source permission from the friendly famer). Having a stretch of our legs we wandered around our new camp, through eucalyptus and olive trees with a yellow and white daisy carpet below us. The aroma of crushed lavender under our feet really is quite refreshing. Were will you take us next Kaerus? As I write this we are sipping espresso in a lovely café of Mondragon, northern Spain.
1100 miles have been covered thus far, Kaerus is purring along beautifully as we soak in the sites and sound of new places. We embraced France, with its grey skies, cheesy smelling supermarkets and extortionate toll roads (which we managed to avoid mostly). These minor points aside, there really are some amazing areas in France. We travelled the smaller roads whenever possible. A particularly nice area we stayed in was Parthenay, a medieval town with very welcoming people. Another great place was the Grande Lac's, we styed here and roamed the beaches with protection from the elements as they are inland. We also discovered that all French music played on radio is modelled on 1980's British pop and then scrambled through a bad autotuner, luckily we have our SD cards of music! Just as we were getting the hang of our basic French, the Spanish border approached. I now really confuse people with a mix of French/Scottish and bad Spanish, also Italian phrases get dropped involuntarily now and again! We will get the hang of this, maybe by the time we reach Portugal and change language again. May Allah help us when the language changes to Arabic in Morrocco! Anyway we shall continue onwards, South West is the current mission, adios. Farewell tiny island of Britain, we shall meet your shores again in the not too distant future.
The original plan was to take the Eurotunnel but on the day we realised the ferry was cheaper and more scenic. The night prior to departure was spent under the stars in a Canterbury car park where we met a number of interesting travellers, each with their own tales to tell. See you on the other side. |