By Ben Ade
Well we have made it this far, over 6000 kilometres and still going strong! Tarfaya was about as far South as we aimed to go, it ended up being further and outside Layoune before we changed direction though. Police checks are becoming much more frequent and a bit of a slog, even though "its all for our own safety", as they repeat to us. Much further South or East here and we either hit the Polisario controlled 'free' zones. This is where the 6000 or so displaced Saharawi people live, refusing to acknowledge their land or rights to king Mohammed. Not only is there risk of military issues here, some areas are still known to have many unexploded landmines, not really what you want when off-road camping! So we head North and then East along the Algerian border and into more desert. We actually passed the lowest point in Morocco, between Tarfaya and Layoune, at 55 metres below sea level. Around here we headed off track to a remote and dried out salt lake. Staying there a couple days, we walked across the scorched salt bed, before climbing an impressive mountain, would be island, in the middle of these salt flats. This felt quite epic and a good point for ending the long road South! Another interesting site we discovered further back Northwards was a many million year old fossilized seabed. Having driven a few kilometres inland and off-road in seemingly bleak, desert landscape, what seemed like rocky gravel turned out to be fossils of crustaceans all round. The next day we walked along ancient sea beds and dug out some amazing whole sea creatures set in stone, really fascinating place. We also visited Tarfaya a couple of times, which has a surprisingly interesting history for such a sleepy wee town. It does feel a bit heavy on political propaganda here though. There were literally thousands of Moroccan flags posted all round, along with very in-flattering, billboard size pictures of King Mo himself, in various odd poses. The famous aviator and author, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, was a regular here and it became a main staging post for the aeropostale service. Saint-Exupery pioneered the airmail service, he also wrote such books as 'The Little Prince' and 'Night Flight'. "I know but one freedom and that is the freedom of the mind" Antoine de Saint-Exupery. The castle built offshore is the main attraction, very Scottish looking among the Islamic and Spanish architecture. Commissioned to be built in the late 1800's, by the Scottish trader and adventurer, Donald Mackenzie who founded this port town under British rule. When the Spanish took control of the town they called the castle 'Casa mar', a name which it retains to this day. They also renamed the town 'Villa Bens' as I have recently discovered, various local establishments still use said name. Fear not readers, the journey is far from over! Stay tuned for the in depth exploration of the Sahara desert proper, oases, Kasbahs, the Atlas mountains and much, much more. Onwards and upwards...well East actually, says the compass!
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By Ben Ade This very elderly, blind Landy was left for dead in the desert by her owner, after breaking both her back legs during hard manual labour. Here at 'Adopt a Landy' we can help cases such as these.
Globally there are thousands of similar situations, all in need of surgery and caring retirement homes. Your contributions will go towards lifesaving operations, such as; state of the art electronic welding limb replacement, laser headlamp replacement to restore eyesight, valve replacement to keep their engine hearts beating plus many more procedures. Dont delay, call today for your information pack and contribution form. Freephone 1-800-ADOPT-A-LANDY. By Melissa Shaw Clambering up to our roof top nest of pillows and blankets. This has to be the best treatment to end another day experimenting with Kaerus's abilities, Ben's driving skills and my nerve levels. Snuggled down, perfectly rested to the melodic and soothing sounds of crickets chirping below.
The peace of our safe slumber was suddenly broken to the most horrific roar echoing profusely around the camp! What on earth makes such a noise like that? I gasped now sitting bolt upright. "Ben did you hear that?" The ear shrieking groan blared across the valley again. I swear it's a monster. Now Melissa, get a grip of yourself! Monsters don't exist. Perhaps we are being hunted by a dinosaur after digging around the fossils this morning. Now really come on, I responded to my own thoughts, Dinosaurs are extinct. My imagination was out of control. I can see the headlines of the local paper now... "couple lost in the Western Sahara, never seen again!" Another roar grumbled towards us, only this time it was closer and now appears there are more of these creatures, perhaps a whole pack. In fact they must have found us! I can hear them all snuffling and snorting. Counting hundreds of footsteps around our beloved vehicle! I eventually find the courage to peer out of the mesh window to confirm my fear....for goodness sake! back to sleep I think, it's only a friendly heard of camels! These gentle, yet curious beasts are a regular iconic sight here in Morocco along with various herds of goats and donkeys. Both wild and captive, camels appear very at home amongst these harsh landscapes of the desert. Their 'squidgy feet' and exceedingly long legs allow them to cross the colossal sand dunes as well as other terrains. These magnificent creatures also have huge internal water tanks on board to ensure that they can reach each desert oasis (many kilometres distance away) without the fear of dehydration. I admit that they have very cute faces too! We had the opportunity to meet a local family tending to their heard along an enclosed shale river valley. The Spanish speaking Moroccan explained that they were vaccinating the herd and branding the younger camels so that they could identify them. (Each camel looked very contented to be handled by the family). During another day on the road (near Tarfaya) we noticed an abundance of camel road signs, much like the caution of deer signs back home. It's true, camels on the road are an issue as they have regular crossing points where a group of ten may wish to cross a few at a time causing a nuisance for motorists. The locals resort to beeping their horn repeatedly on approach, whilst still hurtling along the road. Pulling into a service station to refuel, we were busy watching another Land Rover spill out it's contents of a large group of men all squeezed in. They greeted us as they assisted each other fall out of the back. "Camel is here!" one man slightly shorter than myself and dressed smartly announced. Unfortunately I responded with a puzzled look, not quite sure what he meant by this. Pointing to his left "camel, look!" Sure enough, into the service station sped an ordinary beige coloured pick up with two broad men clambering out to demonstrate that they had a camel as cargo in the back. Within the bed of this open top pick up sat a very patient and relaxed camel as each of the men admired and examined the beast. "you want a photo? asked one of the broader men. "Sure, that would be fab if that's ok with you? I rushed to grab my camera. Standing with man, camel and pick up I had my first up close encounter with one of these extraordinary animals. By Ben Ade The 'Armas' lies motionless out at sea, still as it was, on the day in 2008 when all passengers had to abandon ship. The ferry ran off course and into a huge sandbank beneath the waves, a tug boat was sent out but also got stuck. Local fisherman with small boats had to help with the evacuation of people during the incident, the ferry however seems destined to become a forever visible shipwreck. She once plied a twice weekly route for holiday makers, to the Spanish island of Fuerte Ventura, about 3 hours off shore. There has been no replacement to the Armas, the route is now inactive. We managed to get as close as you can to the ship and get some pics using a long zoom lens, between being splashed by huge waves hitting shore. We were then instructed to leave by a soldier posted here. The site is apparently now a restricted access military zone, guarded full time.
By Ben Ade The 'Oued Draa' is an enormous, seasonal river which starts in the Atlas mountains and ends on the South Coast, after washing through the desert. A small river still runs along the base in dry season, providing sanctuary for countless animal and plant species.
Upon passing the new bridge crossing the Draa, between Guelim and Tan-Tan, we could see the lush banks reaching off into the East. A welcome sight, as the landscape can be bleak around this dry coastal region. The decision was made to see if Kaerus could find a route in that direction. There were no roads, a small shale track led off the road and through scrubby argan trees, with many goat kids scrabbling for the argan kernels. After a few kilometres we ended up in the semi dried out bed of the Oued, where the track ended. There was a well trodden path, used by herds of camel, leading up river. Following this path became an ever increasing test of man and machine, yet we still continued with the arduous route. We ended up spending 2 days along the Oued, whilst travelling some 80 kilometres with no roads of any kind. The axles and joints of the Land Rover were stretched to their near their limits, the underbody guards, snorkel and bush cables proved very handy during this drive. Along with 3 different crossings of the remaining running water, there were washed out steep drops, climbs, axle deep sand/silt and narrow rocky passes through thick trees. We eventually set up camp when reaching a point that was so washed out, we were guaranteed to get no further. By this time the heat was really getting to us, mainly due to the fact that we were driving with the windows and front vents closed, to stop the massive clouds of dust from entering the cab. As evening drew in, a cool air arrived, it felt amazing. As we thanked the 'road gods' (or 'off-road gods'), for bringing us safely to such a cool location, an early night followed. As the night progressed it began to sound like we were in a scene from Jurassic Park. Sounds that I cant even describe eminated from all around, along with strange clunks and shuffles from directly beside the Land Rover. At times there were very loud throaty roars echoing through the valley, I would guess it was either a yeti or a werewolf, but who knows. Among the animals we saw here were; elephant shrews, chameleons, small and large lizards, ground squirrels, camel herds with calves, wild donkeys, goats, strange frogs and numerous amazingly marked birds. Anyway, some patchy sleep was had and we slowly followed our tyre tracks back out the next day. A newfound respect is now with us both,for the abilities of Kaerus, even with the huge weights she is carrying the route had been tackled as well as can be done. Needless to say the Tarmac road now felt as if floating upon fluffy clouds! By Melissa Shaw Preparation, is often key to a stress free adventure. Our planning for this whole trip took us well into three years. We thought about and researched all about potential places to visit, the vehicle we want to use, how we will cook, wash and store and filter water sufficiently, among many other clouds of thought. However, when planning an overland trip, you would not expect clothing to play such a large part in the preparation process. Although, of course for us women it is at the top of the list of things to contemplate. "I want to take this dress, that skirt, all these t-shirts" and the list goes on until the inevitable of "I can't get this bloody suitcase shut now!" happens.
Conversations with family, friends and other acquaintances have fed us with their own experiences and knowledge of the countries that we wanted to explore ; France, Spain, Portugal and Morocco. " Ah! so your going to Morocco, best cover that fair hair of yours! You will definitely need a headscarf". The research confirmed this suggestion, as Morocco is an Islamic based country and still holds it's values and traditions strongly, especially when it comes to appropriate clothing. Although, the younger generation have contributed to the modern living and the relaxed approach with regards to clothing (including the slight decrease of the use of veils and headscarf's). Both sexes can be seen mixing in social situations and even drinking in bars and nightclubs. With this new age thinking, it does not take away from the attendees to Mosques. On the contrary the numbers attending to pray within Mosques are on the increase. King Mohammed VI (1999-present day) announced a National Action Plan back in March 2000. It's main plan was to improve Family Law which would drastically improve the position of women and women's rights under the Moroccan law. This law brought about the end to polygamy and supported more equal family rights. This radical change of course caused quite and up roar among the Moroccan public, with "100,000 people marching for the cause within Rabat and a some 200,000 marching throughout the streets of Casablanca in protest of the change. The government responded to this by establishing a meeting to consider such a move with caution. These proposals to provide women with greater legal rights eventually came into force within 2004 and has also provided these Moroccan ladies with more beneficial legal rights than anywhere else within the Muslim world (much like the rights of women in Europe). So what's my take on Morocco, as a western women on the move? Needless to say, I only have wonderful descriptions to provide you with. The landscape is stunning with it's cosy towns and villages display an infusion of bright colours of red, yellow and blue. The aroma of bbq charcoal cooking the most delicious of tagines wafts throughout the hazy air. The people are ever so friendly and welcoming, always keen to stop to chat. Another bonus is that it's cheap living on the road with fuel around a third cheaper than the UK. What more can I say...they have wild camels!! Since visiting Morocco I have done a little reading into the Islamic religion which I previously knew very little about. With Islam having such a strong influence in everyday public and personal lives, I intend to pay my respect towards their way of life. It is suggested that shorts/skirts and sleeveless t-shirts are a 'no go' as they can be seen as "underwear".Wearing a headscarf to cover your hair and ears also supplies women with an instant impression of respectability. It also helps with reducing the directs heat of the sun on your head and can be pulled don to protect your eyes from the sand/dust. Without this item of dress, I noticed stares from most men and women, as well as a girl tutting and shaking her head (an instant lack of respect from a girl my own age) as well as a "hiss" from a teenage boy. However, when passing through Casablanca, not a soul batted an eyelid. Personally, wearing a headscarf has become a regular routine much like brushing your teeth in the morning for me. As if styling hair for the day, I enjoy experimenting with the different styles and techniques I was taught a very simple but traditional method, by a very kind lady at one of our first stops of the Tarifa-Tangier ferry . As we gazed glances through mirror reflections in a bathroom, I asked if she would show me how to do the style that she was adjusting in her mirror. Both surprised but overjoyed she quickly set to work manipulating my pink rolled up scarf transforming it into a very elegant hair style. Once she had completed this transformation she kissed both my cheeks, squeezed me tight and came to show her family parked next to Ben awaiting in Kaerus. We miss our garden in Scotland. The towbar has become a small planter for stray plants from areas we have been. They have been hanging on a good 1500 kilometres so far. If they look too unhappy we shall set them free somewhere nice!
By Ben Ade The other night we stopped in a small seaside town called Asilah. Looking beyond the modern housing development and shiny beach promenades, the original town was contained within an intricate walled medina. In the late afternoon glow a perfect camping area looked to be below the sea fronted, defensive walls, complete with original cannons. Protected from the winds which were strong that day, also a lovely view of the beach and sunset.
Wild camping brings with it amazing places and memories, however, in towns it can be tricky at times. Immediately after setup a few cheeky local kids started the old procession of "euro?,bon-bon?,stylo?". We have seen various tourists just handing these kids chocolate, sweets or change, wrong move as far as I can see. Continuing the cycle of bad habits, picked up over many years of colonization by rich western countries will not help these kids. If you feel the need for giving charitable donations, why not donate to the local school or similar? Next was the 'guardian'. These guys who don a luminous vest and claim areas of all towns/cities, are seen often. Basically if you want to leave your vehicle parked for any length of time safely, you give the said guardian a few dirham to keep his eyes on it. Handy if you are worried about vandalism or robbery from your vehicle. Then again, perhaps if you refuse to pay anything the very same guardian encourages some local troublemakers to target your vehicle? Just a thought. Anyway, we gave him some dirhams and he was a actually a really helpful guy. We had a great time exploring the labyrinthine maze of the medina. This pedestrianized, ancient place contains hundreds of shops and market stalls. Walking along the food and spice markets really is a feast for the senses. Homes and streets meander through narrow alleys, all safely contained within the giant walls. After this it was time to get back and put some tea on, only now we had company. Where are you now guardian? A well worn homeless gent had decided to drag his cardboard box directly beside Kaerus, or maybe we had parked on his spot? Melissa suggested offering him some tea, this seemed a good idea so I asked him by pointing at the plate, his grunts appeared to signal an enthusiastic "yes please". He happily scoffed the lot at the same time as urinating beside the Land Rover. Sleep was the next task. Homeless dude, all charged up with the fish and rice we fed him, decided to shout out loud conversations with himself about every half hour. The next morning he was gone, a well used cardboard box remained though so we got the hint and left the medina walls to him once more. By Ben Ade
I write this from our current camp in the charming, small city of Safi. The mosque speakers echo from a couple of blocks over, sounding evening prayer. A number of peacocks a few metres away have also decided to join the in the call tonight, along with a nearby donkey! We have just spent a couple of hours exploring the fringes of the city by foot. Skilled trade workshops of every description seem to appear out of all the buildings to keep the men busy, women and children bustle back and forth with daily tasks. Laughter and chatter flow sound through the alleys, a real friendly atmosphere all round. Our plan is to follow the Atlantic coast all the way down, then explore desert and mountains inland on our way back up the country. The nerves have fully restored themselves after driving through the centre of Casablanca earlier today. Compared to here, driving in the UK is like the automotive equivalent of riding a bike with stabiliser wheels in a child's play park. This is a country where donkeys rule the roads, entire families travel on one motorbike, pedestrians feel they are one with the traffic, vehicles approach you on the wrong side of a dual carriageway and market trading in the centre of a road is acceptable. We also decided not to travel the main, boring auto routes, we want to see what's really happening on the streets! To be honest its great fun, but if you suffer from stress or road rage I wouldn't recommend it. We are now well acquainted with the driving etiquette, having taking non motorway roads down the Atlantic coast, through cities, towns and villages alike. Your wits must be on permanent high alert. One second we were swerving to avoid a horse and cart with a flat tyre, the next a shepherd and flock crossing the street out of nowhere. Then some major intersection traffic lights arrive, which neither us or the locals feel we need, so whoever can get through quickest rules, just in time to swerve past a fresh watermelon stall set up in the road. Police checks are every 50 km's or so, friendly affair where they wave us through cheerily, admiring our trusty Land Rover based steed. Horns are compulsory, if you see something amusing or just feel bored it must be pressed, preferably repeatedly. Lights are not for use in low light conditions, they are for flashing at oncoming traffic to say salaam. Indicators? You'll be lucky to see one of them, if you do its unintentional so pay no heed. Anyway, we shall continue southwards now. We have not been through the Morocco pictures yet, but I have included some snaps from the cab of amusing vehicles! The day for a continental shift has arrived! We have been camping and exploring the town of Tarifa for 3 days, a post on that may follow. The mysterious, alluring mountains and shores of North Africa loom as our constant backdrop. It really is close, a bridge or tunnel is surely possible with our modern construction wonders? Open return tickets on the rather pricey ferry are now sorted, boarding at 2pm. Bad weather coming in for end of week on the straits, hopefully we will miss that and have a good crossing though. Next update will be from Africa, over and out for now.
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